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Aiguille de la Gliere, SSE Arret. 2663m

9/14/2012

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Aiguille de la Gliere SSE Arret. 2663m

I and Barry had 3 days to climb. The plan was alpine rock climbing and the weather forecast looked really good. It had snowed down to 2500m the previous days so the options were a bit limited. The classic SSE ridge of Aiguille dl la Gliere in the Aiguilles Rouges (the massif north of Mt Blanc) seemed like a good choice for the first day. And it has a fun little bonus peak at the top.

The route is about 400m D+ with climbing mostly around 4c and 5a. It’s very scenic with a not too long approach and is still of the beaten track.

I introduced simultaneous climbing (simul climbing) to Berry for the first time. With this method both climbers are climbing at the same time with running belays between each other. If this type of climbing is practiced in the wrong way it can quickly become very dangerous. But if practiced in the wright way it is very efficient and is ideal for long alpine routes.

The route took us 5 hours roundtrip and we were down in the valley at about 2 pm. The plan was to go to Salbit in the evening to stay for two days. The drive is 5 h so it was nice to be down early.

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    “Here I will write about ski tours, ski descents, trips, climbs and courses I have been doing with my clients. My ambition is to make it both informative and inspiring for others to read as well as a good memory for my clients to look back at”


    Linus Kulstad, certified UIAGM guide since 2007


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