We started with a classic route from Plan de Aiguille called The Papillion Ridge. It’s a 250m long route following a ridge that offers nice good quality crack climbing. The weather was a bit rough and we had both strong wind and rain. Ricardo had his first hot-ache ever. Something he will remember for a long time to come :) The hot-ache is a very intense pain that you get when warm blood comes back in to a limb that as gone numb from the cold. The pain can be so overwhelming that it can cause people to vomit or in worst cases faint. Except for this new intense experience we had a great day out.
Today Italy was the better weather choice so we went to Machaby close to Arnard in the Aosta valley for some slab climbing and good coffee. We did Diedro Jaccod. It’s a 250m long route with a couple of pitches of 6a+ and the rest is around 5. After that we had a great cappuccino in Arnard
We got a good weather forecast for 3 days so I decided that we should go up to the Envers Hut. It’s about a 3.5 hours walk up along the mer de galce. First you have about 100 vertical meters on ladders to get down to the glacier and then about 100 vertical meters on ladders to get off the glacier and back on the track. But it is worth it. The hut is surrounded with endless possibilities of granite towers and walls. After the walk in we climbed on the slabs just below the hut and topped out and the balcony of the hut just before dinner time.
This was the big day of the week. The objective was “Bienvenue au Georges V”. It’s a 350m long route on Pont the Natillons with a mix of slabs and cracks. The grade is sustained 6a/6a+ climbing. It’s the great classic of the Envers des Aiguilles. We had perfect conditions. No wind and blue sky all day.
After the 12 pitches from the day before we decided on a smaller route for this day. We did Le Piege on Tour Vert. A 200m long crack climb that starts just behind the hut.
We had very strong winds this day and decided to do something in the lower mountains. Barberine offers multi pitch climbing with great quality. We did La Sylvie Phobie. A 250m long route with obligatory of 6a. The climbing is a lot better than it looks!
We were hoping to do a longer route in the Aiguille Rouge but the weather didn’t allow it. We sat 2 hours in the rain and waited for it to clear. But it never did. We practiced some rope technique and different types of anchors. But after 2 hours in the rain we had enough and went to the les Houches indoor gym and practiced technique and fall training. Most people hate practicing fall training but Ricardo was loving it. He just kept taking bigger and bigger falls with a big smile on his face.